Should the dimmer portion of such a fixture fail or become unreliable, it may a blessing in disguise since the lamp will either run at full intensity or can be easily rewired to do so by bypassing the electronics and just using the on/off switch! Warning: halogen bulbs run extremely hot and are a serious fire hazard and burn hazard if not properly enclosed. When changing a halogen bulb, wait ample time for the old one to cool or use an insulated non-flammable glove or pad to remove. When installing the new bulb, make sure power is off, and do not touch it with your fingers - use a clean cloth or fresh paper towel. If you do accidentally touch it, clean with alcohol. Otherwise, finger oils may etch the quartz and result in early - possibly explosive failure - due to weakening of the quartz envelope.
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These are not halogen lamps though their spectral characteristics are similar since the filaments run hotter than diploma normal incandescents - and have shorter lives. Some will have multiple levels of illumination based on selecting taps on the transformer. Normal dimmers may not work (and should not be used) with these due to their transformer design - damage to the dimmer or lamp may result and this may be a fire hazard. Problems with Tensor lamps tend to center around the socket and switch. These may fail due to overheating as a result of the high temperature and high current operation. Replacements are available but they may take some effort to locate. A replacement lamp may be cheaper. (I often find complete tensor lamps in perfect operating condition at garage sales for around. Halogen lamps and fixtures Halogen lamps share many of the design characteristics of high intensity lamps in that they are designed for local high intensity lighting and use a transformer usually (though some may use solid state voltage conversion instead). While some halogen lamps come with dimmers, some of the advantages of the halogen cycle are lost if the bulbs are not run at full power. The worst case is where they are operated just below full power - too cool for the halogen cycle to take place but hot enough for substantial filament evaporation to occur.
If gently jiggling the switch results in flickering this is the most likely cause. These could be anywhere but the most likely locations (where only a single lamp is involved) would be either at the screw terminals on the switch or from a plug that isn't making secure contact in the outlet - check. Occasional flickering when high wattage appliances kick in is not unusual especially if they are on the same branch circuit but could also be a symptom of other electrical problems like a loose neutral connection - see the section: Bad neutral connections and flickering lights. If a dimmer control is present, keep in mind that these are somewhat more sensitive to slight voltage working fluctuations especially when set at low levels. You may simply not have noticed any flickering with a normal on/off switch. High intensity lamps These include several types but they all use a transformer to reduce the 115 vac to something lower like 12-24. Tensor(tm) (and their clones) high intensity lamps have been around for over 30 years and are essentially unchanged today. They use a low voltage transformer producing 12-24 vac along with a special high output light bulb that looks similar to an automotive tail light. However, it uses substantially more current for the same voltage and puts out a much more intense, whiter light.
An electrical supply parts distributor or lamp store should have what you need or be able to order thesis it for you. Take note of the connections as you remove the old socket to avoid mistakes. When routing the wires to the bulb in the base, avoid allowing the hot bulb from contacting the insulation - the plastic stuff might melt (for a 7 w or less wattage bulb and melisande high temperature insulation is probably not an issue, however). What causes a lamp to flicker? Many things can cause the light bulb in a table lamp to flicker: loose bulb(s). ) Squashed center contact in socket. With the plug pulled or power off, use a small flat blade screwdriver of similar tool to gently bend the center metal piece so it is raised from the base (at about a 20 or 30 degree angle). Then, don't tighten the bulbs down all the way - just so they are a snug fit in the socket. These do wear out particularly if multiple high wattage bulbs are being used.
Don't overdo it - the supporting structure is often just a glass jar or something similar. Put a drop of Loctite, nail polish, duco cement, or something similar - or a second nut - on the threads to prevent the nut from loosening. Use some household cement to reattach the felt pad you peeled back earlier. Lamps with night-light bulbs in their base These are the types of lamps where either the normal bulb on top or a smaller one in the base (or both) can be turned on using a turn-key or pull-chain. This is a standard, if somewhat unusual socket. It is basically the same as a 3-way type but with the extra connection going to the bulb in the base of the lamp. In the old days when sockets were assembled with screws instead of rivets, it might have been possible to modify a new 3-way socket to provide the extra connection.
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Install the new cord in exactly the same way as the original with a knot for a strain relief if needed. If there was no strain relief to begin with, adding a knot is a good idea if there is space for one in the base. Snake the cord through to the top of the lamp. Strip the ends of the wires to a length of about 1/2 inch and twist the strands tightly together in a clockwise direction. If you are using a cordset with a polarized plug, identify the wire attached to the wide prong (with a continuity checker or ohmmeter if it is not clearly marked by a stripe on the insulation) and connect it to the silver colored screw. Connect the wire attached to the narrow prong to the brass colored screw. Always organist wrap in a clockwise direction.
See the section: Attaching wires to screw terminals. Confirm that there are no loose wire strands and that the insulation is nearly flush with the screw to avoid possible shorts. Pop the shell top with its insulating cardboard sleeve over the switch and press firmly onto the base. There should be a very distinct click as it locks in place. If needed, adjust the strain relief at the base of the lamp so that pulling on the cord does not apply any tension to the wires attached to the switch. Tighten the nut in the base of the lamp holding the entire assembly in place if the socket is still loose and rotates easily.
Sometimes, a fine screwdriver blade will be useful to gently pry the two halves apart. With the top part removed, unscrew and disconnect two wires and remove the switch. If desired, loosen the set screw (if any) and unscrew the bottom portion of the shell. If you are simply replacing the switch, at this point you would just attach the new one and reassemble in reverse order. Screw on the bottom of the new switch enough so that it is either tight or until the threads are fully engaged but not pressing on or protruding above the cardboard insulating disk in the bottom half of the shell.
If the entire assembly is still loose, it should be possible to tighten hardware on the bottom of the lamp to secure it against rotation. Note: it is important to do this to avoid eventual damage to the wires should the switch move around significantly during normal use. To replace the cordset, you may need to partially remove any felt pad that may be glued to the base of the lamp. Sometimes, it is possible to cut off the old plug, attach the new cord to the end of these wires, and pull it through. However, in most cases, there will be a knot or other strain relief in the original cord which will make this impossible (and you will want to replicate this in the replacement as well). Therefore, if needed, carefully peel back the felt pad only enough to gain access to the interior. In some cases, just cutting a small x in the center will allow sufficient access and this can be easily patched with a piece of cloth tape.
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A polarized type plug is desirable to minimize the possibility of shock when changing bulbs. A medium size straight blade screwdriver and wire strippers are the only required tools. First, unplug the lamp! Rremove and set aside any shade, frosted chimney, and other cosmetic attachments. Examining the metal shell, you will note that it is in two pieces. If you look carefully, there will probably be essay indications of where firmly pressing the top portion will allow it to be separated from the bottom part mounted on the lamp. These are usually near where the knob, button, or chain, warming enters the switch.
If color coded, cut the wires so that the colors are retained at both the lamp and switch ends. Rebuilding a basic table lamp, as noted in the Introduction, virtually any table lamp can be restored to like-new electrical condition for a few dollars at most. The following is the detailed procedure for the majority of common table lamps found in the. This is assumed to be the type of lamp which has a combination socket and switch with a metal (brass-colored usually) outer shell. It is your decision as to whether a simple on-off switch or a 3-way type is to be used - they are usually environmental interchangeable and a normal light bulb can be put into a 3-way socket (two clicks of the knob will be needed. You can also put a 3-way bulb into a normal socket but you will, of course, only get one level of illumination (medium). For lamps with lighted bases, also see the section: Lamps with night-light bulbs in their base. You will need: (1) a new socket/switch of the appropriate type and (2) a new cordset (if you want to replace this as well).
away from them. Most common problems: burned out bulb, worn switch, bad plug or cord. Where the light flickers, particularly if jiggling or tapping on the switch has an effect, a bad switch is almost always the problem. Switch failure is more common when using high wattage bulbs but can occur just due to normal wear and tear. Replacements for most common switches and sockets are readily available at large hardware stores, home centers, and electrical supply houses. It is best to take along the old switch so that an exact match (if desired) can be obtained. While the thread sizes for the screw on socket shells are quite standard, some older lamps may have an unusual size. For more complicated switches with multiple sockets, label or otherwise record the wiring.
For the most common combined switch and socket, there are several varieties and these are all generally interchangeable. Therefore, if you want to take advantage of the added convenience of a 3-way bulb allowing low, medium, and high illumination, it is a simple matter to replace the simple on-off switch in your lamp with a 3-way switch (not to be confused with the. Wire color coding: Brass screw is ac line hot, silver is neutral. Virtually the same switch/socket combo is used where there is a bulb in the top and the base. But instead of switching the extra contact inside a 3-way socket, that terminal goes to the bottom lamp holder. Wire color coding: Brass screw is ac line hot, silver is neutral and is also connected to the outer shell shortage of the bottom lampholder, Black goes to the centter of the bottom lampholder. Push-push, pull chain, and rotary switches are common for simple on-off control. The 3-way switches are usually of the rotary variety with off-low-medium-high selected as the knob is rotated. The 3-way bulb has two filaments which can be switched on individually or in combination to provide the 3 levels of illumination.
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Back to, small Appliances and Power tools Repair faq table of Contents. Ac line and Battery powered household Appliances. Table lamps, this is the most popular type of lighting umum for reading or general illumination. The type described in this section takes normal 115 vac light bulbs. The common table lamp is just a light duty cordset, switch, and sockets for one or more incandescent light bulbs. In many cases, the switch and socket are combined into one assembly. In other designs, particularly where more than one bulb can be lit independently (for example, a large bulb up top and a night light in the base a separate switch (rotary or push-push) selects the light bulb(s) to be turned.